Getting-Started

How is the best way to get into RC racing at EPR

  • Decide on class
    • There are a number of different classes at EPR
      • 2wd buggy – Best place to start learning to race, and a popular class
      • 4wd buggy – Harder car to keep maintained and not a popular class
      • Stadium Truck (Truggy) – Very forgiving, but popularity varies race to race
      • Short Course Truck – Generally good fun, but least popular racing class
      • Vintage (2wd or 4wd) – Generally for the enthusiast
    • If you are new then a 2wd buggy is the best place to start. This class can be a little challenging to start with, but is usually the most cost effective and also the best way to learn to race. Once you have mastered a 2wd buggy, then switching to another class later will be easy.
    • The other benefit to the 2wd class is that it’s popular on race-days. Since there are more racers running 2wd buggies on a race-day, it is more likely that you will be in a group of similar ability and not out of your depth while learning to race. It also gives you a better chance at being able to keep up with others too and follow their racing lines (or maybe not).
    • If you do decide on a 2wd buggy please note most manufacturers provide a carpet or dirt version. The dirt version is ideal for wet days, and the carpet version is ideal for dry days, however as you are starting out consider where else you may want to race. If there are indoor tracks local to you then consider the carpet version. If it’s other outdoor tracks then consider the dirt version. Either type of car can be setup to cope with wet or dry. Talk to members to get a better recommendation based on the manufacturer you intend to buy.
  • Decide on a new or 2nd hand buggy
    • Ask what manufacturers most of the members race with. Currently in order of popularity these are the following manufacturers that we see at EPR
      • X-ray, Serpent, Yokomo, Schumacher, Associated, TLR, PR
    • Sticking to one of the popular brands at the club will mean you are not alone when needing help and members are generally a helpful bunch and willing to provide advice and also provide spares that you can replace at a later date.
      • The real decision here is whether you want to build a car from scratch and then race it. Which means you will be buying new and of course will be a larger outlay
      • Buying a 2nd hand buggy is usually more affordable and some will be sold with spares so you don’t have to worry about initial breakages (which is bound to happen)
    • If you are interested in a 2nd hand buggy talk to members and they will point you to people that may be looking to sell
  • OK – I’ve decided on a buggy what about electrics
    • Electrics can vary in price greatly, but what I would recommend as a starter would be not to spend too much initially, then as you become a more proficient racer to then start upgrading components.
    • There are a number of things to consider here
      • Transmitter/Receiver
        • As a beginner the transmitter is probably the main component to invest in. Do not buy the cheaper analogue models; look for the digital brands around £80 or more. Transmitters can cost much more than this, but this price point is a good place to start. Ask members what type of transmitters they are using. Again getting a brand that others use will help you get started.
      • Brushless Motor
        • This is probably the easiest component that everyone can justify buying the ‘fastest’. But as a beginner this is a big mistakeJ. The ideal motor to start with will be a 10.5T motor. As you become more proficient you will work your way down to a 6.5T. I think the best way to look at this is that in real motorsport no one starts racing in an F1 car, they start in Karting with considerably slower motorsJ. The same applies in RC racing. Start with a 10.5T and over time as your racing improves; you can switch to faster motors.
        • HobbyWing Juststock Combo-XR10-JS2 – Black – G2.1 10.5T
        • https://semcs.co.uk/product/hobbywing-juststock-combo-xr10-js2-black-g2-1-10-5t/
      • LIPO batteries
      • Battery Charger
      • Transponder (only required if you want to compete on race-days) Transponders are needed for the timing system on our track. So if you want to know how fast you are going round on practice days and more importantly compete on a race-day then you must have a transponder. There are two brands
        • The original mylaps RC4-Hybrid (two wire).
        • MRT Cloned mPTX (two wire).
        • DO NOT BUY ANY THREE WIRE TRANSPONDER, THEY ARE NOT COMPATABLE
      • Are there other things I should get?
        • Tools. All manufacturers usually have a couple of pages in their build manuals that highlight all the recommended tools. You should look at these to find what you need. Some of them will be familiar and others not so much, like turnbuckle wrenches, hex drivers. Also it would be good to get a 2″ brush (and maybe a toothbrush) to clean the car, along with a small hammer just to tap out any stubborn pins that can’t be pulled from wishbones.
        • Metal servo horn. With the stresses most cars take a plastic servo horn normally doesn’t last very long. Look for a metal servo horn from the manufacturer of the car.
        • Tires – follow this link for general setup and recommended tires for EPR https://www.edenparkraceway.com/car-setup-for-epr